Some Questions

Share information about reloading the .204 Ruger.
Post Reply
BunGhoLeo
Junior Member
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 9:58 pm
Location: Taylorsville, Kentucky

Some Questions

Post by BunGhoLeo »

Well, I have everything except my chronograph to start load development, and I’ve got a few last questions before firing those first reloaded rounds.

Bullet seating depth:
What is the minimum amount of the bullet that needs to be in the case? After doing all the measurements on my chamber I seated a Hornady V-max 32gr to be 0.010" from the lands. My case's are 0.030" shorter then my chamber, plus all the free bore involved, this only left 0.089" of the bullet in the case. Is that enough? Or should I shove it further in the case to whatever the minimum should be.

Cleaning media:
So I got a 10lb bag of Lyman "Corncob Green" media, which said dry media with no residue. Well, it leaves allot of residue on the cases, enough that I’ve had to hand polish every single case to get it off. Does this stuff just need to be used a few times so it won't leave all that crap on the cases? Or should I look at another brand/type of media that actually won't leave all that residue on the cases.

Electronic Scales:
I'm a modern type of guy, and I like the idea of an electronic scale for fast measuring. I plan on weighing each charge. I can't seem to ignore this after spending all the time in uniforming cases, then the subsequent load development. I did buy a beam style scale because I was undecided about the electronic versions, but I wanted to see if any of you have had experience with other electronic scales. My biggest concern is whether to go with a scale from the reloading manufactures, or just flipping the bill and get a lab quality scale that is certified and I know will be right.

Custom Reamers:
In another thread there was a discussion about Rick and his custom reamer he had made. Is it possible, or worth the trouble to get the reamer and redo a factory chamber on a factory barrel? As sloppy as this savage chamber was cut it’s making me think about it. Though it doesn't shoot badly anymore, I'm thinking more on the line of case life. The brass out of this savage doesn't even come close to chambering in my Ruger #1, so I know it's getting stretched quite a bit. Now I'm leaning way to the side of just letting it be and just grit my teeth and bear with it. The idea of going thru 250+ cases and full length resizing doesn't sound fun, but then again, it'll have to be done at some point. I've even thought about just replacing this barrel, with 250+ rounds it's still laying copper and still looks rough. I'm hoping that the WS2 will help on this as well.
heikki02003
Junior Member
Posts: 65
Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 4:58 pm
.204 Ruger Guns: Savage LRPV

Re: Some Questions

Post by heikki02003 »

BunGhoLeo,
I have a comment or two about the scale:

BUY A RCBS CHARGEMASTER COMBO!!! You'll be happy you did.

First read this for some background information on scales:
http://www.6mmbr.com/prometheus.html

Then read this about digital scales:
http://www.6mmbr.com/powderdispensers01.html

Then go buy a RCBS Chargemaster Combo... Oops, I already said that... Well it must have been important.
Kyle
acloco
Senior Member
Posts: 1708
Joined: Mon Sep 25, 2006 8:53 pm
.204 Ruger Guns: 12FV, 12BVSS -S
Location: Nebraska

Re: Some Questions

Post by acloco »

BGL,

Seating depth - as long as the next bullet in line does not move under recoil, you have enough in the neck.

Corncob - I use straight corncob and add a car wax to it. I sometimes give a final polish to cases with untreated corncob as well.

I tried the Lyman and RCBS route as well. Now have a lab quality scale on the bench. It is STILL quicker than either of the automated powder drops. More accurate as well.

If there is enough stub (straight stub on the barrel), yes, it can be set back and rechambered. In terms of your pocket book, I would not bother. Buy an aftermarket barrel already chambered and threaded for the Savage (about $269) and install it. The setback and rechamber will cost you $100-$200.
User avatar
Rick in Oregon
Moderator
Posts: 5189
Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 4:20 pm
.204 Ruger Guns: Sako 75V, Cooper MTV, Kimber 84M, Cust M700 11 Twist
Location: High Desert of Central Oregon
Contact:

Re: Some Questions

Post by Rick in Oregon »

BGL: acloco is right, also add in the cost of the custom-ground reamer of roughly $130 to the equation. Better to go the new pre-chamabered barrel route as he mentioned. Either that or do a custom barrel with a custom reamer, but we're not talking apples and apples then.

It all depends on how much you want/are able to spend. One thing for sure, a custom barrel will always most certainly be more accurate and foul less than any factory barrel. Like most other things, it's all about money.
Semper Fortis
Rick in Oregon
NRA Life/OHA/VHA/VVA

Oregon, East of the Cascades - Where Common Sense Still Prevails

Image
doctor duck
New Member
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Apr 26, 2008 2:08 pm
.204 Ruger Guns: Howa 15001js697o

Re: Some Questions

Post by doctor duck »

I second the RCBS Chargemaster. IT is fast and accurate. Also the customer service is great.
User avatar
futuretrades
Senior Member
Posts: 835
Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2007 11:16 am
.204 Ruger Guns: HOWA 1500 .204 Ruger Varmint, Bull Bbl, Lupy 6-18x40 custom

Re: Some Questions

Post by futuretrades »

if you already have a beam scale, don't sell it. but if you are thinking of buying an electronic scale, i agree with others on this post, go with the rcbs chargemaster. i have been using mine for over 6 mos. now and i love this unit. very accurate and very fast. as i said, keep your beam scale, for just in case reasons and to double check your electronic scale once in a while, :)
NRA Benefactor Life member
HOWA 1500 Varmint 204 Ruger, Bull Barrel, Hogue Overmold Stock, Leupold VXII 6-18x40mm AO LRV Custom Reticle Timney Trigger
Cooper Mdl 21 20VarTargW/Leupold VXIII, 6-20x40AO Varmint Hunter reticle.
Post Reply