JB Bore Paste

[GaCop]

Bore Tech Eliminator will help keep copper fouling down once you have the barrels clean. BT Eliminator is doing a better job of removing copper in my bores than Extreme 50BMG if you can believe that............smells much better too.

Best route to go is the electronic bore cleaners for stubborn "copper mine" bores, they remove copper FAST with no scrubbing.

Tom

[Silverfox]

+1 on Wrangler John's statement:

Don't let the patch exit the muzzle, when it reaches the muzzle pull it back through, repeat.

You don't want to wallow out the crown on your barrel. If I use JB I will place the muzzle of the rifle up against the wooden side of my reloading bench so the jag hits the wood and stops BEFORE it exits the muzzle.

There are nylon brushes available from BoreTech that have their core made from a metal that will not give you false copper readings, just like the spear tip jags they sell that don't give off false copper readings.

[ryutzy]

Silverfox--I've been doing exactly as instructed and I'm using the Bore tech nylon brushes and I have been getting great results. I've been using Butches Bore Shine in the bore then putting Butches on the patches and then putting JB on the wet patches. It's been working great for a REAL clean barrel. After this treatment the patches come out clean and white. Thanks for all the tips fellas!

[Malazan]

I use KG12 for copper removal.

Buy the way, about how many rounds do you all shoot before copper becomes an issue. I think I'm over cleaning

[bow shot]

My 12 VLP doesn't come in to its best groups (all shots under 0.5") unitl I hit close to 20 rounds. Before that they are... awful. After that, I've been experimenting, and so far up to 200 rounds it keeps its group size very well. Once I clean the bore down to shiny metal (I don't have a bore scope) with the JB, its back to square 1.

I'm thinking it may be becuase I developed the load with the barrel kinda dirty...?

I din't know if its copper or what, becuase I just use Kroil and Jb.

[gunhaus]

I'd like to pass on what we do here in the shop. We do about 30-35 guns a week plus our personal arms.

With todays excellent chemical products, we hardly ever use abrasive products. When we do it is either regular JB, or FLITZ. Both are used on a fairly tight patch without the brush. Largely when we do use abrasives it's the carbon not the copper that's the issue. A 25-06 I just did is a great example, after useing our usual application of regular solvents, then copper removers, fouling could still clearly be "felt" and was quite visible with the bore scope. Here we applied some JB, and a few strokes later we ran a couple of solvent patches a couple of dry patches, then another treatment of copper remover. And then the patches came out BLUE. We actually had to repeat this sequence three times. You cannot underestimate how carbon layers can build up and harden between the copper layers especially in a high vel small bore. (Ask Chris at Pac-Nor about high intensity 6mm's and carbon. He once sawed a barrel in two and the carbon had heat hardened to the point it was almost like a ceramic, and a carbide cutter would hardly cut it!)

What we always try to do when possible is let the chemicals do the work. We long ago switched to nylon brushes everywhere we can. All that is needed is enough aggresive action to let the solvents get under the surface. And then we give them some time to work. We use Butches for General purpose solvents, and Sweets for the more aggresive copper remover. We use colloidal graphite as a bore treatment/lube after cleaning. We start with a couple of wet patches of Butches, and a few passes with the brush, then walk away and do something else for a half hour or so. Wipe dry. Usually theres a lot of black, and sometimes a light tinge of blue - Butches does a moderatly good job of getting after copper. Then we repeat again. Following this second treatment, we put some denatured alcohol on a patch and run it through the bore. This will work as a nuetralizer - If you feel that is necessary - we feel better safe than sorry, and the alcohol patch always seems to pick up a little bit of fouling as well. Then we soak a couple of patches in Sweets and swab the bore (Nylon jags!) let it set for 15 minutes and wipe clean. Repeat. If we are still getting a lot of blue we keep using the Sweets. But a lot of the time the blue nearly stops and yet we can still feel or see fouling. If so we go through the process again. General cleaner-brush-dry-alcohol-Sweets- etc. There is no set number of passes. A highly neglected 22-250 might take ten or more applications. A little used '06 might be done after one. Time and experience will tell.

As for how often to clean. . . My 17-204 needed a good cleaning after aver 40 rounds. But it would clean up nicely after one of the above treatments. One of the CZ 204's we use to test bullets in the shop shoots as good after 200 rounds as it does clean - We've never gone over that number, and it too cleans up usually in a single treatment. A Marlin 30-30 that comes in this time every year takes four or five treatments to come clean, shows a lot of copper fouling and really carbons up, and I doubt the owner shoots more than 60 -70 rounds total a year. No real rules.

I also have had a couple guns that needed to foul up a bit to do their best work - Go figure! They are all a bit different ain't they!

Just my 2 cents -John

[Valar]

Ryutzy, I assume the gun you have a copper fouling problem with is a Non Stainless barrel. I have a Factory Rem 700 VS in 308. This gun gave me copper fouling problems as well. Rem makes a good non stainless barrel but often leaves bore a bit unpolished. This promotes copper fouling. A good fix for this is to push patches tru the barrel with Lapping compound! I always use a bore guide , but the compound polishes the rifleing to the point where copper fouling is much less likley. Brownels sinclair, midway etc allsell lapping compound. Most guns willsmooth out with time and shoot consistent without copper fouling after hundreds of rounds. Lapping shortens the process to help hold accuracy! good luck. I have not had to lap any quality stainless barrels as of yet?

[GaCop]

KG-12 is a great solvent for copper removal, the military uses it to clean artillery pieces. KG-2 is a good carbon remover.

[204foxguy]

I have used JB Bore Paste on an Magnum Rifle sparingly.

I have used Wipe-out and give it time to work and the bores have come out very clean. On some occasions i leave it overnight. The Magnum Rifle took alot of cleaning to get the fouling out and that was why i used the JB Bore Paste on it.
I do believe that it didn't take quite as much to clean it up after the JB Bore Paste Cleaning.??

I have been quite happy with the wipe-out product you just need time to let it work. I think letting it work is less wear and tear on the bore than using a brush and or Patch on it.

[btlbrn]

I have used JB Bore Paste on an Magnum Rifle sparingly.

I have used Wipe-out and give it time to work and the bores have come out very clean. On some occasions i leave it overnight. The Magnum Rifle took alot of cleaning to get the fouling out and that was why i used the JB Bore Paste on it.
I do believe that it didn't take quite as much to clean it up after the JB Bore Paste Cleaning.??

I have been quite happy with the wipe-out product you just need time to let it work. I think letting it work is less wear and tear on the bore than using a brush and or Patch on it.

Less wear and tear on us too!!!!!!!!!!!!