Bore solvent
Bore solvent
Just looking for people's thoughts on what's the best bore solvents to use for copper and carbon cleaning? I've just run out of a locally made product here in OZ and don't know what to try next.
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Re: Bore solvent
Bore tech eliminator cu2 for the copper and c4 for carbon
- futuretrades
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Re: Bore solvent
For the carbon, I use a mix of Shooters Choice, 65 to 70% and Kroil, 30 to 35%. It does a really god job on the carbon and powder fouling. For the copper, I use CR10, after getting the carbon/powder fouling out. . After the barrel is cleaned, I us colloidal graphite in the barrel. For me the graphite seems to make the next barrel cleaning, a little easier.
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HOWA 1500 Varmint 204 Ruger, Bull Barrel, Hogue Overmold Stock, Leupold VXII 6-18x40mm AO LRV Custom Reticle Timney Trigger
Cooper Mdl 21 20VarTargW/Leupold VXIII, 6-20x40AO Varmint Hunter reticle.
- Sidewinderwa
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Re: Bore solvent
I like Montana Xtreme Copper Killer and Wipe-Out foam cleaner for carbon and easy cleaning. The fewer times I run the cleaning rod down the barrel the better I like it.
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Re: Bore solvent
In the field I use a 60/40 Shooters Choice & Kroil mixture and it works quite well with a good quality bronze brush. Over time though I find I need to really get it out I've used a combo of things like;
- SLIP2000 for carbon and Sweets 7.62 for copper. One thing about SLIP 2000, it is water base so one must get it out of chrome-moly barrels or rust will eventually come along.
- Lately though I've been using liquid Patch-Out / Wipe-Out with a nylon brush made by Sharp Shooters. Just scrub and let it sit. Depending on how bad it is it will come out clean the first couple of times. If not repeat. In the end though it is clean as viewed with a bore scope. Its designed to be brushless but I opt to use a nylon brush and it can be left overnight unlike some of the products I previously mentioned. One caveat though; DO-NOT mix this stuff with other products. Heres the link to their website. http://www.sharpshootr.com/. Ive used the other products they offer too; Accelerator and Tactical and they work equally as well.
Another combo when its really...really...really bad is use JB bore cleaner and lead-away cloth wrapped around a Parker-Hale style cleaning jag, Be cautious though on blued steel because it will remove the bluing.
The key though is-not letting it get built up real bad in the first place. For my 204, 223 and such, after 60 rounds max, I clean the rifle. Using the Shooters Choice / Kroil with a few strokes [with] a good brush and a few minutes of sitting, within 2-3 patches down the tube she's clean. Afterwards, a swipe with Lock-Ease and another patch and she's ready to go.
HTH,
- SLIP2000 for carbon and Sweets 7.62 for copper. One thing about SLIP 2000, it is water base so one must get it out of chrome-moly barrels or rust will eventually come along.
- Lately though I've been using liquid Patch-Out / Wipe-Out with a nylon brush made by Sharp Shooters. Just scrub and let it sit. Depending on how bad it is it will come out clean the first couple of times. If not repeat. In the end though it is clean as viewed with a bore scope. Its designed to be brushless but I opt to use a nylon brush and it can be left overnight unlike some of the products I previously mentioned. One caveat though; DO-NOT mix this stuff with other products. Heres the link to their website. http://www.sharpshootr.com/. Ive used the other products they offer too; Accelerator and Tactical and they work equally as well.
Another combo when its really...really...really bad is use JB bore cleaner and lead-away cloth wrapped around a Parker-Hale style cleaning jag, Be cautious though on blued steel because it will remove the bluing.
The key though is-not letting it get built up real bad in the first place. For my 204, 223 and such, after 60 rounds max, I clean the rifle. Using the Shooters Choice / Kroil with a few strokes [with] a good brush and a few minutes of sitting, within 2-3 patches down the tube she's clean. Afterwards, a swipe with Lock-Ease and another patch and she's ready to go.
HTH,
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Re: Bore solvent
Montana Extreme copper cleaner and Wipe out/Patch out work just fine for me. Follow directions on the bottles. Bill K
Re: Bore solvent
Thank you for all your help. I've gone with the bore tech cu2 and c4. These are the only ones that were mentioned that I could find here.
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Re: Bore solvent
I'm sure those will work well. Eliminator is an all-in-one product from the same company, if you wish to try it at some point. Another option if in the future your current strategy becomes unavailable or something, is the KG products offering. KG-1 is a terrific carbon remover, and actually pulls as much or more copper as most of the solvents out there. KG-12 is the best copper remover I've ever tried, with includes both the Boretech and Montana Extreme lines. KG products are also wrapped in the Browning label Stateside. Not sure about anywhere else.
Like I said, though, I'm almost certain you'll be happy with Boretech's offerings.
Like I said, though, I'm almost certain you'll be happy with Boretech's offerings.
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Re: Bore solvent
This was very helpful. Thanks for sharing, futuretrades!futuretrades wrote: ↑Sat Aug 13, 2016 8:25 pm For the carbon, I use a mix of Shooters Choice, 65 to 70% and Kroil, 30 to 35%. It does a really god job on the carbon and powder fouling. For the copper, I use CR10, after getting the carbon/powder fouling out. . After the barrel is cleaned, I us colloidal graphite in the barrel. For me the graphite seems to make the next barrel cleaning, a little easier.
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Re: Bore solvent
I use Boretech Eliminator for both copper and cabon fouling. Works on both and No Smell to get the wife complaining. Be sure to use stainless steel brushes. Has No Ammonia and will not damage barrels. I get mine at Midway USA...cant buy it in stores.
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Re: Bore solvent
Stainless steel brushes? I must say you're the first person I've heard of in years that recommends using those on barrels. Personally I don't but when I'm using more chemicals than elbow grease I'll use Nylon.
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Re: Bore solvent
Maybe I should have said it differently...Nylon bristled brushes with a stainless steel base, the reason for this is that the brass brushes
have copper in them and the boretech will always try to remove it. meaning that your patches will always show green copper fouling.even when the bore is clean.
I didnt mean stainless steel bristles.
have copper in them and the boretech will always try to remove it. meaning that your patches will always show green copper fouling.even when the bore is clean.
I didnt mean stainless steel bristles.
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Re: Bore solvent
That makes sense. Also there are aluminum jags too to prevent false readings when cleaning.
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Re: Bore solvent
pro shot bore solvent works pretty good