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wipe out no lead

Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 2:38 pm
by btlbrn
Has anyone tried this product from SharpShoot-r? I have ordered their wipe out patch out and can't wait to try it (thanx to Brad's recommendation). Almost sounds too good to be true. :eek:

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 3:14 pm
by Darkker
Wipe Out works VERY well.
I won't say that you NEVER have to use a brush, but it certainly isn't REQUIRED like with my former favorite copper eater, Sweets.

One thing to remember with these newer bio-degradable type cleaners, don't mix and match with them still in your barrel. Haven't found that it hurts anything, but they seem to fight each other, and stop being as productive.
You will be very happy.

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 6:12 pm
by K22
Wipe Out and Lock Ease is your friend. ;)

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 4:18 pm
by 7mag
Win-mag just got some and I tried it on what I thought was a THOROUGHLY cleaned rifle....I was wrong! That stuff is amazing!!! Will be using it from now on for sure.

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 7:12 am
by Ol` Joe
I havn`t tried the newer "lead out" formula but if it works 1/2 as well as the copper remover you`ll be more then pleased.

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 12:58 pm
by MotoDog
K22
Is that Lock EEze for keylocks? ACE hardware and NAPA have it?
Tell me more how it is used?
Mike

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 2:08 pm
by Pmoper
Moto Dog....Lock Eeze is a graphite colloidal solution...supposedly will bond to the steel inside your barrel....Have used it...seems to help keep the buildup down.....,,Just bought and started to use the "WIPE OUT"...amazing what came out of a "clean" barrel....I'm a believer.....

wipe out no lead

Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:24 pm
by boomer68
What are your methods for using Wipeout? (overnight soaking, 30mins etc)
Do you spray from the chamber end or muzzle?

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:15 pm
by Jim White
I haven't tried it yet but I aim too unless it is a foam. If so, then I'll pass. Tried some GUNSLIK foam cleaner once and it was a nusiance to get it into the barrel. I gave it away.

For carbon I haven't found anything [yet] better than SLIP 2000. It's good, works reasonably fast but is water based so make sure you get some lube on any metal surface it touches. Afterwards, I use Shooters Choice (I have 1/2 gallon can left) and after many-many rounds I use Sweets and they clean up reasonably quick. Unlike the poster above I don't use a brush, I just swab it in and let er' soak for several minutes. Depending on build up, a couple of episodes is usually all it takes.

When copper & carbon are stubborn [since SLIP 2000 haven't had a problem] I will use a piece of "Lead-Away" wrapped around a jag and stroke the bore several times and that usually removes anything left. Use caution with "blued" finishes because it will take it off.

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 3:59 am
by 7mag
boomer68 wrote:What are your methods for using Wipeout? (overnight soaking, 30mins etc)
Do you spray from the chamber end or muzzle?
I don't use the aerosol. I usually run a wet patch, a few brush strokes and let sit 20 minutes or so. I follow that with a wet patch and let it sit for 20 min again. Then its just a few wet dry combo's till clean. A real dirty barrel sometimes requires an over night soak is what I hear, but I have not had to do that yet. I use the 20 minute soak times for sizing and prepping brass.(or drinking coffee)

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 7:07 am
by Bill K
7mag wrote:
boomer68 wrote:What are your methods for using Wipeout? (overnight soaking, 30mins etc)
Do you spray from the chamber end or muzzle?
I don't use the aerosol. I usually run a wet patch, a few brush strokes and let sit 20 minutes or so. I follow that with a wet patch and let it sit for 20 min again. Then its just a few wet dry combo's till clean. A real dirty barrel sometimes requires an over night soak is what I hear, but I have not had to do that yet. I use the 20 minute soak times for sizing and prepping brass.(or drinking coffee)
I follow just about the same pattern, but do run a nylon brush in and out a few times (from chamber end w/ bore guide) after the first soak just to help loosen any debris, etc. then it is a wet patch again, allow to soad another 1/2 hr, then a wet patch followed by a few dry patchs til they show clean/no blue, etc. I then like to run a slightly wet patch down the bore with some Essox (a synthintic lube/cleaner) and leave the ever so slight coating in the bore. :) Bill K

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 2:42 pm
by boomer68
I have been using the foaming version but find it quite messy. I will give the Patch Out a try.

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:45 pm
by jo191145
I started with Wipe Out. Product worked very well but it is messy.
When Patch Out hit the market I tried that. Works just as well with less mess although mess is'nt a large concern for me.
A concrete floor with solvent spots is a happy floor.

Both products work best on copper fouling. Not quite as good at removing carbon.
With those "problem" barrels I'll clean normally with a mild solvent and brass brush.
Patch till dry then attack the copper with Patch Out and the Accelerator.

If you've got the time overnight is fine.
Need copper gone in a hurry I use a nylon brush.
Every 6-10 strokes depending on mood I alternate rewetting the brush with PO and accelerator as it exits the muzzle.
Makes a nice froth that seems to get the job done faster.

I've seen both WO and PO remove stubborn copper that both CR-10 and Sweets could'nt fully remove. Thats good enough in my book.

SharpShootR makes a very good case lube wax product also. Royal Case Lube.

Re: wipe out no lead

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:51 pm
by boomer68
Has anyone tried Bore Tech? I have the CU+2 copper remover, C4 carbon remover and the Eliminator products. I also use their cleaning rods and Proof Positive jags and nylon brushes. Seem to work pretty good. I use the carbon remover first, then go after the copper.