Savage 110 varmint Handloads

[LukeMN]

Hello. Just posting my loading data from a range session today. Chronograph was acting weird. Top left was the 27gr load and bottom left was 29gr load. Velocity isn't where I would like but working on it. No pressure signs whatsoever. Once fired brass sized with Lee Collet Die.

CFE223
39gr SBK
2.260

Can anyone share their velocities and/or loads with CFE223 and 39gr SBK?

[skipper]

Is that a ladder test using .5 grain increments? You might find a tighter node if you work from minimum to maximum loads in .2 grain increments. Any signs of pressure would be a good stopping point during a Ladder Load Development Test. Flat primers, bolt hard to lift, etc.

[Bill K]

I shoot very few 39 SBK's, 98% of my bullet now days are the 32 gr Nosler Lead-free, due to game laws in my state. So I used the same loads on paper when I shoot it or plink around.
I run 29.3 and 29.4 gr loads of CFE 223 and get some very good groups that do the job on paper or critters.
As Skipper mentioned play with those lower grouping with .2 varys and work up, also watch seating depths, you should find a nice tight load, many do with the 39 SBK's.

101_0618.JPG (1.18 MiB) Viewed 29402 times

Just an example of some of mine. Start lower and work up slow and easy and watch for those pressure signs.

[LukeMN]

Is that a ladder test using .5 grain increments? You might find a tighter node if you work from minimum to maximum loads in .2 grain increments. Any signs of pressure would be a good stopping point during a Ladder Load Development Test. Flat primers, bolt hard to lift, etc.

Thanks yea I did .5 increments up to 29gr. I had no pressure signs but was looking for them. I figured I would be OK since book max for this bullet is 29.9. now I will do .2 increments up to 29.8 and see what I get.

[Bill K]

Watch very carefully working up as you mention. That pressure spike can sneak up on you. Always have in mind, YOUR RIFLE/CHAMBER, may not take the max area the book load shows. Safe and sane is the way to go, all while looking for a very accurate load.

[Rick in Oregon]

What's a "Harmint"?

[LukeMN]

What's a "Harmint"?

Can't believe I didn't notice that yikes.

[Bill K]

I was thinking, maybe head shots only.

[LukeMN]

Update. Had to do 200 yard range today because the others were busy. Results in pics. Best group was 29.5 grain of cfe223 and progressively got worse from the 29.7gr then to 29.9. no pressure signs but I am stopping there. 29.5gr is going to get more testing at 200 yards.

[Jim White]

As Bill mentioned, try small grain increments for work ups with any small cases. I've found the .5 is ok for 30.06 and like cartridges but for 223, 204 and similar, it's a mite much.

[LukeMN]

I have not tried Reloader 10x yet because of the history of it being a very dirty powder. Since this will be a prairie dog gun and will go many rounds between cleaning, I was going to avoid it. I also heard the "newer" formula is supposed to be cleaner. Does anyone have experience with newer lots of RL10x? Powder options are slim with 8208, H4895 and H322 being impossible to find right now. CFE223 mentioned above is proving to be very temp sensitive and that is also not great because it was 110 degrees in Wyoming last June on our PD trip. Thanks.

[Rick in Oregon]

I have not tried Reloader 10x yet because of the history of it being a very dirty powder. Since this will be a prairie dog gun and will go many rounds between cleaning, I was going to avoid it. I also heard the "newer" formula is supposed to be cleaner. Does anyone have experience with newer lots of RL10x? Powder options are slim with 8208, H4895 and H322 being impossible to find right now. CFE223 mentioned above is proving to be very temp sensitive and that is also not great because it was 110 degrees in Wyoming last June on our PD trip. Thanks.

I use 10X in my 204's that see much use in the rat patch ever since discovering it was the most accurate powder (for me) along with the best speed with it. I usually clean my 204 barrels after no more than 50 rounds down range and don't see much difference from my other rifles burning other powders.

But I will admit most of my powder stash was purchased some time ago when prices were what we now call "normal". When powder was around $25/lb, I'd buy a few pounds every time I was in the store just to build up a stash for the future; sure glad I did. I have no data or experience to share to the claim the new 10X (new, when?) is any cleaner, but as my barrels get cleaned in this caliber more than say, my 20VT or 221FB (less powder burned per shot) I can't really see any difference.

Where we shoot GS's, it very seldom gets past 100*F, and when it does, we use a wet towel over the barrel while cleaning to bring down the barrel temperature. Any hotter, and it's time to go where there's A/C and out of the sun. It's purty dang hard to preserve a good barrel while shooting in temps over 100*F!

I'd suggest trying 10X in your 204 and then make the decision if it's "too dirty" or not, and don't rely on "history" that's not of your own findings.

[LukeMN]

Thanks Rick for that info. Little background on my reloading setup and experience because I changed some things and have shot more groups.

I have only ever handloaded 1 rifle cartridge and that is my .300 win mag for hunting out big game out west. I reload that rifle with Redding does off an older Lee 3 hole turret press. It's not very tight or smooth. Since I've ventured into my 2nd rifle cartridge I figured it would be time to upgrade a little . Cabela's had the Hornady single stage classic press on sale so I got one. I also got a Lyman case prep station (the suto-spinning one) since it was on sale too and I haven't spent as much time with brass Prep as I should.

So the old way was neck sizing on a Lee collet die and seating bullets with the Lee seating die from that same kit. I also have a body die for bumping shoulders. I decided to upgrade the seating die to a Forster micrometer seater. It's so nice. I got some Redding competition shell holders And I am also bumping back my shoulders every firing for consistency. So basically I am trying to full length size while working the brass less and keeping the minimal runout i get from the collet die. The two pics are from 100 And 200 yards. I will post a screenshot of velocities as well. I am pretty happy with my changes. Load is 26.8gr. of Benchmark under 39gr. SBK's, rem 7 1/2 primers loaded at 1.250, once fired brass.

[LukeMN]

Speeds from groups above but don't mine the 29.8. mistype

[Rick in Oregon]

Luke, it appears you're progressing very well with the search for both accuracy and velocity with your 204R.

You may want to consider a set of the Hornady shoulder gages to keep track of the need or lack of it to bump shoulders. I seldom have the need for shoulder bumping, maybe after five or more firings/loadings, certainly not every time I reload that batch of cases.

Another aspect is working the brass too much with constant F/L sizing. My varmint calibers are very seldom F/L sized, as if the brass will slip into the chamber without any resistance, there's no need to F/L size the case at that point. Neck sizing only will prolong the life of your brass much longer and also give that perfect fit to the rifles chamber as it's been formed for that exact chamber via firing which usually gives superior accuracy. Many times after cases have been shot 5+ times, it's also necessary to anneal to prolong the life of the brass and avoid neck splitting.

To illustrate, here's a target shot with my 221FB (Furball )with brass that's been fired mutiple times with only neck sizing:



Another example is my 20VT again with only neck sizing and also shooting Nosler two different factory seconds; BT and Varmageddon:



All my 204's react the same way, and out of all four of mine, the fired brass gets neck sized only. Here's a target shot during a rat shoot in the field showing the same results after installing a Jard 10oz trigger (which all my Cooper varmint rifles are so equipped):



Once I've got my pet load developed for a particular rifle, I seldom shoot it on paper again unless to confirm POI in the field. 98% of all my shooting is at critters, not paper, so I've only got targets shot after the load has been determined, hence the dates shown on the targets.

Keep tweaking your load, maybe adjusting seating depth in/out after the group is showing signs of shrinking, and you'll land on "The One" eventually. Best of luck in that regard.....you're on your way.